再次来到塔尔钦这个小镇,还是那个地方,只是比八年前那是路宽了不少,房子也多了许多。游玩阿里基本都是要住在塔尔钦一两晚的,如果你想要转山,它是起点,如果你只是想要看看玛旁雍错与拉昂错,那它也是一个很适合的落脚点。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLXF2ajJscTQ5azAvM2Y1MjA3OGI2YzJjNGJkMGI3OTdhYWQ5YTIyYWU1ZmN+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZ4LWV4cGlyZXM9MTY3Mjc4OTQxMSZ4LXNpZ25hdHVyZT11VlMlMkZQOTNTSE40cEdmalNlNGZpMzJLcFBKWSUzRA.webp)
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLXF2ajJscTQ5azAvMGVkNWIxYTdjYWQ2NDRlN2JjYzE4MTQyNmI4NDVlYTl+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZ4LWV4cGlyZXM9MTY3Mjc4OTQxMSZ4LXNpZ25hdHVyZT12S0VaM3lMdEduSWt1T3o0YVR4d2Fzd0QzcEklM0Q.webp)
还记得第一次来的时候,只有少数的几家餐馆和茶馆,住宿大多数都是藏族人家的大通铺,厕所都没有的那种。此番再来,街头两边是满满当当的川菜馆、兰州拉面,烧烤和火锅,酒店更是数不胜数,甚至都能住得上算得上高星的酒店了。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLXF2ajJscTQ5azAvNzViZWUyMDY5M2Y1NDM2NWJjOGI1NThjNDgyMDFiYjd+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZ4LWV4cGlyZXM9MTY3Mjc4OTQxMSZ4LXNpZ25hdHVyZT12U3lvZ09JaG9TWFZXaHJQRjladGIzJTJGN0lFYyUzRA.webp)
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLXF2ajJscTQ5azAvZDNhOWQ1MWY2NTU2NGU1MzljZmZmNWY1YzZhNjRmMGV+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZ4LWV4cGlyZXM9MTY3Mjc4OTQxMSZ4LXNpZ25hdHVyZT1VRCUyRkNnVEFiUTE3WmROU0hBZEpiTDdQdUVXSSUzRA.webp)
我们从拉萨出发,第一天是漫长的赶路,到了拉孜县已经是晚上了,第二天继续往前开来到了塔尔钦。神山脚下在不经意间多了许多高压线,我们不过是过客,而长久留守在边疆的人们才是这片土地的主人,即便是再偏远的小镇上,现在也基本水电无忧了。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLXF2ajJscTQ5azAvM2ZlYjE1ZWU3Y2Y3NGQ5OTlhYjM3NzIzZDI1ZGZlNjB+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZ4LWV4cGlyZXM9MTY3Mjc4OTQxMSZ4LXNpZ25hdHVyZT1PR2ZaWVFGazF5VGpWeiUyRnFkRXVCTTFmbyUyRkdVJTNE.webp)
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLXF2ajJscTQ5azAvMzQ3ZDczMTEzYjhiNDc2ZjhmM2Q2ZDEzNjc3MzU2ZTZ+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZ4LWV4cGlyZXM9MTY3Mjc4OTQxMSZ4LXNpZ25hdHVyZT1hJTJGRHZQaEFFVVlxQkhzRTRHNTN4QlJoWXBoNCUzRA.webp)
我们顺着车辙印来到了大草原上,太阳渐渐落入山头,一边是被太阳照耀着的纳木那尼峰的日照金山,另一边是仅剩一点点光的冈仁波齐。在当地人心中,纳木那尼峰是“神女峰”,它与冈仁波齐隔着玛旁雍错,遥遥相望。纳木那尼峰与冈仁波齐的爱情故事在这里世代相传,而我们也不过就是幸运地在这座大草原上拥有它们一个日落的时光。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLXF2ajJscTQ5azAvMjk3ZDBjNzQ3ZTY4NGQ1YmFiOTRlYzQ4OGFmMTdlYWF+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZ4LWV4cGlyZXM9MTY3Mjc4OTQxMSZ4LXNpZ25hdHVyZT1XYTVjQjZwb3Q0YURoNXNnbU1pTXRyY2dFM0UlM0Q.webp)
冈仁波齐小Tips:
很神奇,在西藏的神山圣湖是有自己的属相的,冈仁波齐是依释迦摩尼的属相属马,所以每12年就会有一场大规模的转山朝拜活动,巧的是我在2014年马年,也是我的本命年转过一次山。马年转冈仁波齐可以增加12倍功德,转了一圈等于13圈呢。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLXF2ajJscTQ5azAvZTcwOWY5MjUzMzc2NDQ5NDkyMTU4MDlhNTc4MzBiMDR+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZ4LWV4cGlyZXM9MTY3Mjc4OTQxMSZ4LXNpZ25hdHVyZT1BM2NtTUcwTmklMkJWSThESldFMUtEcWtGSGU4YyUzRA.webp)
转冈仁波齐有很多种说法,转一圈,洗清今世的罪孽;转十圈,可洗清一劫的罪孽;转百圈,那大概是要成佛了。Anyway,不管是什么样的说法,我事实上也没有想过那么多,我只是想来走走路散散步锻炼锻炼身体;我只是想只要能走完它就好了。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLXF2ajJscTQ5azAvZmVlOGY2NTJiYmZkNDVkZDhkYzU1ZjNkMzIzOWQxZmJ+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZ4LWV4cGlyZXM9MTY3Mjc4OTQxMSZ4LXNpZ25hdHVyZT1TdE8wbiUyRkxJRnN1RDg4YVpJTTJtT1VJQXc2dyUzRA.webp)
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLXF2ajJscTQ5azAvODYwNzA2M2Q3MDRlNDQwYzg0MjQ5ZmI5ZGM4YWRlYmZ+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZ4LWV4cGlyZXM9MTY3Mjc4OTQxMSZ4LXNpZ25hdHVyZT04T2t5Slg4TnRKazhJZjlzbWtZMUdMbHJaTUklM0Q.webp)
转山一圈有52公里,其中最高的海拔是5700米的卓玛拉山口,翻山之前的路是无休无止地上山,从海拔4700米的塔尔钦一直来到卓玛拉山口,这都还算小事。比较可怕的是下山过程,那会儿大多是筋疲力尽,一天的力气都快用尽了却需要往下爬很陡的坡,去塔尔钦的悬崖边缘路段也都是倾斜的,现在想想,每次都是夜里才走那段路,心有余悸。
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLXF2ajJscTQ5azAvMWM4Y2NmZTk0MzI0NGNjOTk3ZTIzODZkNDgzMTcyNmZ+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZ4LWV4cGlyZXM9MTY3Mjc4OTQxMSZ4LXNpZ25hdHVyZT1ISWtBWnd0ZTFVbmpVd0ZOaUFBODR0cEpxWEUlM0Q.webp)
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLXF2ajJscTQ5azAvNjYzNjdiYmUwM2IwNGJhNjk2Yzc3MWU5ZTAyODY0Njh+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZ4LWV4cGlyZXM9MTY3Mjc4OTQxMSZ4LXNpZ25hdHVyZT05ZkVJMHdSdzBMT1puUjFJeVA4TFR3eVFtU0klM0Q.webp)
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLXF2ajJscTQ5azAvY2ZlYzBlYzY2YmZlNGZhZmIwMjY1YzllZjQ4OGY1NzR+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZ4LWV4cGlyZXM9MTY3Mjc4OTQxMSZ4LXNpZ25hdHVyZT1HQ0NMTTY4VWdEVUJYVDduRDdSMzRvd2pXTmMlM0Q.webp)
![](https://img.ngnnn.com/img/aHR0cHM6Ly9wMy1zaWduLnRvdXRpYW9pbWcuY29tL3Rvcy1jbi1pLXF2ajJscTQ5azAvNTk1N2RmYzUyODMyNGNmOWFjNGUzMjdiODA2YTdiYWJ+bm9vcC5pbWFnZT9faXo9NTg1NTgmZnJvbT1hcnRpY2xlLnBjX2RldGFpbCZ4LWV4cGlyZXM9MTY3Mjc4OTQxMSZ4LXNpZ25hdHVyZT1nNkd5MW1mWlIxUmdta3ViZk10VkxhcEVtYWMlM0Q.webp)
#冬日生活打卡季#